Cashmere
What is cashmere?
Cashmere is a rare natural fibre obtained from the undercoat of the Capra hircus goat, raised in some of the world’s harshest regions — notably Mongolia and the high Himalayan plateaux.
To withstand winters when temperatures can fall to –40°C, the animal develops an exceptionally fine undercoat that is light, soft and remarkably insulating.
Naturally thermoregulating, cashmere retains warmth without feeling stifling and can be worn directly against the skin. Its incomparable comfort comes from the fineness of its fibres — up to five times finer than a human hair.
Once you have worn it, it is hard to go back to another fabric.
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Origins & history
Cashmere originates in some of the harshest regions on earth.
On the high plateaux of Mongolia, Tibet and the Himalayas, more than 3,000 metres above sea level, Capra hircus goats live in extreme conditions, where temperatures can fall to –40°C. To survive, they develop an exceptionally fine undercoat that forms a natural barrier against the cold.
Today, the vast majority of the world’s cashmere comes from Mongolia, where most cashmere goats are raised. These arid, sparsely populated regions preserve a pastoral, often nomadic way of life in which goat herding remains largely artisanal.
Each spring, as the goats shed their coats, this precious undercoat is carefully harvested — combed out or collected. It is a rare resource: a goat produces an average of only around 100 grams of usable fibre. It therefore takes between 2 and 6 goats to make a single jumper.
Although the fibre comes from these high-altitude regions, the name “cashmere” originates from the Kashmir region of India, where the wool was once spun and woven before travelling along the Silk Road.
A material born of extreme conditions, shaped by time and skilled hands.
Ply & gauge
Ply and gauge are two essential considerations when assessing a cashmere jumper — its thickness, structure and feel when worn.
The more plies it has, the thicker and warmer the garment will be.
Ply refers to the number of cashmere strands twisted together to make a knitting yarn.
A 2-ply jumper is fine and light, almost like a second skin.
A 4-ply jumper has more structure, ideal for everyday wear.
From 6-ply upwards, cashmere becomes denser and more enveloping — made for winter.
Gauge: the precision of the knit
Gauge describes the fineness of a knit: the number of stitches in a given area. In practical terms, it relates to the size of the needles used: the finer the needles, the tighter the knit.
A 12-gauge knit is fine and even, and is often used for 2-ply jumpers. By contrast, a lower gauge, such as 7-gauge, produces a more open, supple knit with a slightly more relaxed look.
The balance between gauge and ply is essential. A thick yarn knitted too tightly will lose its suppleness; a fine yarn knitted too loosely will lack structure.
It is this balance that makes a beautifully made jumper.
Our choice of yarn
We mainly use 2/26 yarn, a premium standard that offers an ideal balance of fineness, durability and softness.
This yarn count produces a highly even knit and allows us to create both fine stitches and thicker constructions without compromising the quality of the finish.
How can you recognise quality cashmere?
It is often difficult to assess the true quality of a cashmere jumper by sight alone. Specialists, however, focus primarily on three essential characteristics.
Fibre fineness
The finer the fibre, the softer and silkier it feels. This is one of the foremost measures of cashmere quality.
Fibre length
Long fibres intertwine more effectively during spinning. They produce a stronger knit and naturally reduce pilling over time.
Fibre whiteness
The lightest fibres provide a better base for dyeing. They produce deeper, more luminous colours that remain truer over time.
These characteristics are not always apparent at first glance. That is why choosing a specialist who can explain where their fibres come from, how their pieces are made and what distinguishes their products is often the best way to invest in quality cashmere designed to last for many years.
How to choose your cashmere
A cashmere jumper is a piece you will keep for many years. To choose well, there are a few essential criteria worth considering carefully, whether you are shopping in-store or online.
The specialist you buy from
Not all retailers have the same expertise. A cashmere specialist knows where their fibres come from, how their pieces are made and the characteristics of each grade of wool. They can offer you advice and answer your questions precisely.
The composition
Always take the time to check the label. A 100% cashmere jumper will not have the same properties as one made from a blend of fibres. Depending on what you are looking for, a blend may have its merits, but it is important to know exactly what you are buying.
The weight and density of the knit
Two jumpers may look identical at first glance yet differ considerably in quality. A knit that is too light or sheer may indicate that less material has been used. Conversely, a dense knit generally holds its shape better, provides more warmth and lasts longer.
Origin and traceability
Where cashmere comes from is essential. Knowing the origin of the fibres and the expertise used to process them is a true mark of quality and transparency.
What is Mahogany Premium cashmere?
The premium collection is made from exceptional cashmere that meets the standards of two or three brands with worldwide reputations.
Its 13–14-micron fibres come from the first combing of young goats, yielding the finest fibres in the world. By comparison, premium cashmere such as that used for most of the pieces on our site measures 15.5 microns. More standard cashmere measures 16.5–17 microns. The finer the cashmere, the softer the jumper.
These young goats are combed exclusively and produce just 30 grams of fibre each, compared with 100 to 200 grams from an adult cashmere goat. Only a few dozen tonnes of cashmere of this quality are available worldwide each year.
The fibres also have an average length of 36 mm, a characteristic shared by our other cashmere. This exceptional length reduces pilling. The premium fibre colour is known as “extra white”.
We use only the whitest fibres, which reproduce colours in their purest form without the need for bleaching agents that could alter the fibres’ qualities. The pieces are made to our usual standards, which are already of the highest order: hand-knitted, hand-finished neckline and individually quality-checked.
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